Paco Rabanne can never, even past his passing, be regarded as anything other than a legend. In love with space and otherworldliness, he brought a particular chic and edge to fashion design which shocked quite a few and certainly, inspired others. The idea of, the thought of metal or paper dresses was not at all de rigeur - in fact it was horrific to most who associate chic with cashmere. But Rabanne was a Futurist - and more interested in what will be than what is. So...His go-to were industrial Disco Discs of metal, silver (anything!) and an otherworldly way of thinking, as his book...'Has the Countdown Begun'? clearly establishes. His forward thinking sense of linear line went on to influence such a star (as a wonderful star himself) Thierry Mugler. Perhaps Claude Montana too.
Rabanne's mini tome is much vilified but it is interesting, nonetheless. Perhaps one could regard it as a sort of autobiography. I am not sure how much a Si-Fi fan he might have been but as a designer, he certainly looked to a future which perhaps could never be, drenched in planetary gleam and suggestive of other worlds. What we don't know is magnetic. But then...The 60s with Apollo and Moon in mind were universally magnetic and held ideas and perhaps, hope. Our current space mission though NOW is still a sort of quest of the future...'To boldly go,' as Captain Kirk might say! One only also has to think about the space age fantasies of David Bowie to comprehend. 'Is there Life on Mars?' indeed...And as for the album, 'Space Oddesy'...
I met and interviewed Paco Rabanne on a number of occasions. Somehow we took to each other, instantly. I sort of do and don't know exactly why...I believe I interviewed him for The Clothes Show Magazine and The Independent Newspaper. But the publications did not matter a jot. I was taking tea with a legend. He was dressed 'super-casually' but with that Hispanic beard which suggested a kind of street exoticism. His stare was all-encompassing and for some, I suppose (not me!) intimidating. He did a lot of staring into space and at passers by. His interest was the how of things and not the why...And he sketched many an image of what he imagined my astral chart looked like. When I told him my great uncle was Sri Aurobindo, the philosopher and spiritualist, he showed no immediate surprise - only a gentle nod of understanding.
Of course, nowadays (and being very clever as a designer (and the head of a multi million pound House) the name Rabanne for most, is linked to fragrances. Perhaps, the best paraded and indeed advertised by the most sculpted models is 1 Million which in global ranking is apparently second to Toy Boy by Moschino and trumps Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Tom Ford. Even Prada! 1 Million, in the official You Tube upload of the advert received over 1,494,000 views and over 21,910 likes.
Like Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne knew that to capture an audience it was not necessarily through the imagination of the fantasy (and expense) of clothes. Cardin in particular, was ahead of the game realising that he could put his name to anything and it would sell because of what that name meant to people - from a bottle of water to a doll! He also had a flower shop and a plane with his signature! His genius captured people's desire. So also, did Rabanne's. Perfume or cologne or after shave represents 'affordable luxury' and puts practically any brand within almost everyone's reach. A couture garment can be hundreds of thousands of pounds. A bottle you might come across in Boots the Chemist might demand £100 or so. And in any case...Not all will want to parade in fashion so unfamiliar and seemingly, 'uncomfortable.' Fashion, shape, size, desire, magnetism are all hallmarks of chic clothing. A scent can be captured in a bottle and indeed, become, something of (as Calvin Klein might agree!) an Obsession...When Elsa Schiaparelli created the torso bottle for her signature perfume, it caused more than a rush of interest. Jean Paul Gaultier's torso perfume bottle must be in some way, une hommage. And the torso bottle itself reminds of couture and shape and drape.
Paco Rabanne created the most striking outfits for amongst others, Audrey Hepburn and the unforgettable, Jane Fonda in Barbarella. It might not be so surprising to be reminded that his love of space was echoed in the circular discs which were spangled on his dresses and hand bags - then something of a novelty. Can we not describe them as the planets we are not aware of yet? The symbol of the disc itself is pure and clean and with gleam, adds glamour.
He was 88 years when he died but so much loved and so much missed....So many couturiers, even to this day celebrate him privately and publicly. His idea of using metal fused the notion of industry with wearable aesthetics was copied, worldwide. In many ways, a mini shift dress spangles with mirror discs was an easy go-to, especially for the 1960s and one can find echoes in the reflective power of 20's and 30's Hollywood heroines in spangled gowns. Lights love a shine. Joan Crawford must spring to mind...
And so...Back to stars...
He dabbled with menswear but it was, as any great designer (and Lagerfeld did the same for Chanel) a nod to the wardrobe of a man of luxury and taste.
But in Rabanne's case, he never created a tie.
'It is the symbol of the hangman's noose,' he told me once...But...How I wish he made cravats.